We boarded Mongolian train 263 (rule of thumb: the lower the number, the better the train) at 9 pm on March 31 bound for Irkutsk, Russia. Unlike the train from Beijing, this one was packed with no beds to spare. We shared our compartment with a Mongolian kid who studies in Irkutsk and a retired surgical professor who was on his way to visit a former pupil in Ulan Ude. We really lucked out with our cabin mates because they were quiet and tried to share whatever they had with us. We tried to share our instant noodles but they were much happier with their cucumber, mutton and steamed bread. They finally approved of some train station pastries Patti picked up at the border.
Our neighbours to the right were much different than our cabin mates. These lovely drunkards were Mongolia's only death metal band, "Fair Wind", on their way to a death metal festival in Ulan Ude. Apparently Russia has a huge death metal culture unlike Mongolia. It is fair to say they began the festivities the minute they got on the train and the Vodka was flowing at a incredible pace. I was fortunate enough to be invited in for some vodka rounds, so much that I have black spots in my memory from that evening. Despite the memory loss, I did get a copy of their debut CD, "Coffin Town Under the Moon". Can't wait to give it a listen at home. For any curious potential fans, they are definitely Death Metal and NOT heavy metal. I was corrected several times.
The ride was pleasant except for the border which involved sitting in both the Mongolia and Russian stations for 6 and 5 hours, respectively. None of the immigrations or customs officials paid much attention to us but worked over any Mongol or Russian person with several bags. I'm not surprised, given a couple of hours before the border the Mongolian traders were paying other passengers to bring their goods across the border for them. Very amusing situation given most the goods were fake polo shirts. Our cabin was given 2 large blankets, a bag of shirts and a pair of boots. All of them were reclaimed approximately 5 kilometers past the customs.
Great time all together.
Looking forward to the third leg: Irkutsk to Moscow.
Colin and Patti
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